Horticare Recommends

Dry air, low precipitation, little soil moisture, and fluctuating temperatures are characteristics of fall and winter in many areas of Arkansas. There often can be little or no snow cover to provide soil moisture, particularly from October through February. Trees, shrubs, perennials and lawns can be damaged if they do not receive supplemental water.

Long, dry periods during fall and winter can result in injury or death to parts of plant root systems. Affected plants may appear perfectly normal and resume growth in the spring using stored food energy. Plants may be weakened and all or parts may die in late spring or early summer when temperatures rise. Weakened plants also may be subject to insect and disease problems.

Herbaceous perennials in exposed sites are more subject to winter freezing and thawing. This opens cracks in soil that expose roots to cold and drying. Winter watering combined with mulching can prevent damage.

Lawns also are prone to winter damage. Newly established lawns, whether seed or sod, are especially susceptible to damage. Susceptibility increases for lawns with south or west exposures.

Water only when air temperatures are above 40 degrees F. Apply water at mid-day so it will have time to soak in before possible freezing at night. A solid layer (persisting for more than a month) of ice on lawns can cause suffocation or result in matting of the grass.

Plants receiving reflected heat from buildings, walls and fences are more subject to damage. The low angle of winter sun makes this more likely in south or west exposures. Windy sites result in faster drying of sod and plants and require additional water.

Monitor weather conditions and water during extended dry periods—one to two times per month without snow cover.

Newly planted trees are most susceptible to winter drought injury. Woody trees generally take one year to establish for each inch of trunk diameter. For example, a two inch diameter (caliper) tree takes a minimum of two years to establish under normal conditions.

Trees obtain water best when it is allowed to soak into the soil slowly to a depth of 12 inches. Methods of watering trees include: sprinklers, deep-root fork or needle, soaker hose or soft spray wand. Apply water to many locations under the dripline and beyond if possible. If you use a deep-root fork or needle, insert no deeper than 8 inches into the soil.  As a general survival rule, apply 10 gallons of water for each diameter inch of the tree. For example, a two-inch diameter tree, needs 20 gallons per watering. Use a ruler to measure your tree’s diameter.

Newly planted shrubs require more water than established shrubs that have been planted for at least one year. The following recommendations assume shrubs are mulched to retain moisture. In dry winters, all shrubs benefit from winter watering from October through March. Apply 5 gallons two times per month for a newly planted shrub. Small established shrubs (less than 3 feet tall) should receive 5 gallons monthly. Large established shrubs (more than 6 feet) require 18 gallons on a monthly basis. Decrease amounts to account for precipitation. Water within the dripline of the shrub and around the base.

Herbaceous perennial establishment periods vary. Bare root plants require longer to establish that container plants. Plants transplanted late in the summer or fall will not establish as quickly as plants planted in the spring. Winter watering is advisable with late planted perennials, bare root plants, and perennials located in windy or southwest exposures.


Horticare Recommends



Despite the fact almost everyone loves to get out in the garden every once in a while, very few people actually know the so-called "correct" terminology associated with gardening so here are a few we thought you should know!

Aeration: Aerating a lawn means supplying the soil with air, usually by poking holes in the ground throughout the lawn using an aerator. It reduces soil compaction and helps control thatch in lawns while helping water and fertilizer move into the root zone. 

Dripline: Looking at a plants outer most branches, and marking on the ground a circle directly under these branches will give you the point where rain water will tend to drip off at. This gives the area where the roots are concentrated.

Thinning Out: The removal of excess seedlings; so those plants that remain have room to grow healthy and strong. Also, to remove whole branches from trees, shrubs, or plants to promote healthier growth, and maintain size.


Horticare Recommends

White Flies are small winged insects which look more like moths than flies. They are active in all parts of the world and will thrive year round in the south but go dormant during the winter in northern states. Though white flies can be a tough and persistent pest, the right combination of materials combined with the right timing of treatment can solve any infestation.

Adult whiteflies will lay eggs in less than a week once they emerge. Eggs are very small; almost invisible. Eggs will be laid on the underside of leaves, in hard to see locations, in generally well protected parts of the plant.  Once the young emerge, they will immediately begin to feed. Though their development can occur in less than a month, a much longer development time frame is not uncommon.  Cycles can take as long as a year if conditions are not so favorable. However, regardless of how long it takes them to develop, damage will certainly be happening to any host plant on which they reside.

Whiteflies are a problem because they have piercing mouth parts which allow them to suck plant sap. This behavior is what they do to feed and host plants are prone to many problems during such feeding. There are many problems that feeding whiteflies cause including leaf damage, sap drainage, honeydew excretion which lures other nuisance insects and produces Black Sooty mold, and they are extremely prolific.  Once they get established on any plant around the home or garden they will readily migrate and look to infest any other nearby vegetation. Whiteflies don't discriminate; they will move onto any plant that has healthy and abundant sap.

If you already have whiteflies active in your garden or house plants, there are several materials which can be used to keep them in check. Keep in mind that white flies are persistent. They reproduce quickly, like to hide on parts of the plant which makes the hard to reach when spraying and have certain stages which are not susceptible to chemical. For this reason it is important to choose the chemical of treatment carefully.

The least toxic material that can be sprayed for white flies is INSECTICIDAL SOAP. It prevents adults from flying so they are not able to migrate to neighboring plants, stops the colonies from laying more eggs, and it will suffocate some members of the colony immediately decreasing activity following treatments.

If Insecticidal Soap has not proven effective and you want to go to something a little stronger, there are other options available. They come in either a dust or a liquid form and the key with getting the desired result is based on how good you are at treating the host plant. Since white flies have a knack of avoiding direct applications, it is critical that you get all surfaces of the plant in order for any insecticide to work. To help insure proper coverage, you may consider either PERMETHRIN DUST or DELTAMETHRIN DUST.  Use the Permethrin for treating any garden type plant which is edible or will produce fruits or vegetables. Use the Deltamethrin Dust, which is slightly longer lasting, on any non-edible.

We want to begin by saying "thanks" for logging on and we hope you enjoy our fall online newsletter! 

We are really excited about our First Annual Horticare Harvest Fest that we are having here at the nursery on October 13, 2007, from 9:00 AM to 1:00 PM. 

We are going to have five separate carnival games, a free hayride, a free maze, and pumpkin painting that will be judged by Horticare owners Dan Hill and Buddy Olsen.  The grand prize winner will be presented by KARK Ch. 4's Tracy Douglas.  The grand prize will be given away at 11:30 AM so make sure to come early so you don't miss out!  (Only children ages 2-10 are eligible...sorry parents).

We are also going to have a fall photo booth, a temporary tattoo parlor, free balloons, and an exhibit from the Little Rock Zoo animals.  A portion of the proceeds are going to support the Little Rock Zoo's new Black Rhino exhibit.  Come out and show your support and have a great time!

Also, we are going to be having a HUGE sale that day on all of our inventory.  Our entire inventory is going to be 10% all day and all of our "Harvest Items" (i.e., pumpkins, mums, pansies, gourds, corn stalk, milo, etc.) are going to be 20% off during Harvest Fest and 15% off after 1:00 PM on that day only!  Make sure you mark your calendars so you don't miss out on the fun or the savings!  We look forward to seeing you there. 
 

New Life For Old Mums

During Halloween and Thanksgiving, many mums will be used for color in holiday arrangements.  When the blooms have worn out, this is a great time to plant them outdoors in your garden.  Find a nice sunny location with well drained soil.  Later, after the frost has killed the top growth, you can trim them back for the winter.  When they come up in the spring, wait for them to get about 6 to 8 inches tall and pinch them back about 2 inches.  Do not cut back after July 4th.  This will keep them bushy and full of blooms for fall.  Good luck!
                                               
                                                 -Buddy Olsen, CEO

 

Whatever you decide to do, just have fun with it! Whether you are entertaining or simply want to surprise your trick-or-treaters, these fantastic fall creations are sure to make your yard or porch the envy of your entire neighborhood! 

Camellias are evergreen shrubs or trees that traditionally bloom in the fall, winter and early spring. They are members of the family of plants called "Thea"  Camellias are native to China, Japan and Southeast Asia.  There are many different species of the genus camellia with a wide variety of characteristics such as bloom types, blooming season, colors, growth habits, and other desirable traits such as fragrance.  With so much to offer, it is no wonder that Camellias are one of the best shrubs to plant for continuous fall and winter color.

Traditionally, camellias bloom in the Fall and Winter months.  Different species and varieties within species, bloom at different times.  Camellia Sasanqua blooms September-December.  Some varieties of Camellia Japonica will begin blooming in October while others may not begin blooming until January or some even as late as March. 

Camellias are a cool season plant, so care should be taken to give them a cool, but not freezing environment.  Moderate soil moisture should be fine.  Too dry or too wet will cause problems.  Most all camellias will perform well in shadier locations.  Some camellias will perform well in sunny areas.  Sasanqua's,  and most dark colored flowers will tolerate more sun than other camellias.

For the most part, Camellias should grow well in Zones 7, 8 and 9.  However, camellias have been grown in some areas of zone 6 with precautions such as placing in a protected area away from northern winds with some canopies of evergreen shade trees.

Horticare Recommends

Visit the website that promotes Horticare and all of our great specials we have going on!  Log on to email us your questions or post them in the forum!

Click here to watch the latest about Horticare off of the Arkansas Showcase on Ch. 4 from October 1, 2007! Horticare Recommends

The chrysanthemum was first cultivated in China as a flowering herb and is described in writings as early as the 15th Century B.C. In fact, their pottery depicted the chrysanthemum much as we know it today. As an herb, it was believed to have the power of life. Legend has it that the boiled roots were used as a headache remedy; young sprouts and petals were eaten in salads; and leaves were brewed for a festive drink. The ancient Chinese name for chrysanthemum is "Chu." The Chinese city of Chu-Hsien (which means Chrysanthemum City) was so named to honor the flower.

Around the 8th century A.D., the chrysanthemum appeared in Japan. So taken were the Japanese with this flower that they adopted a single flowered chrysanthemum as the crest and official seal of the Emperor. The chrysanthemum in the crest is a 16-floret variety called "Ichimonjiginu." Family seals for prominent Japanese families also contain some type of chrysanthemum called a Kikumon – "Kiku" means chrysanthemum and "Mon" means crest. In Japan, the Imperial Order of the Chrysanthemum is the highest Order of Chivalry. Japan also has a National Chrysanthemum Day, which is called the Festival of Happiness.

The chrysanthemum was first introduced into the Western world during the 17th Century. In
1753 Karl Linnaeus, reknowned Swedish botanist, combined the Greek words chrysos, meaning gold with anthemon, meaning flower. Linnaeus was the founder of that branch of taxonomy dealing with plants and including the science of classification and identification. Experts say this is probably an accurate description of the ancient species, as it also points out the mum’s need for sunlight. The earliest illustrations of mums show them as small, yellow daisy-like flowers.

Petals on chrysanthemums are actually florets (a small flower, usually part of a dense cluster, especially, one of the disk or ray flowers of a composite plant such as a daisy) since both sexual parts (male/female) exist in each one. The chrysanthemum flower has two types of florets - ray florets that would be called petals on a daisy, and disc florets that are the center florets in a daisy type of bloom. Only the disc florets can reproduce. All classes of chrysanthemums have both types of florets, but in many of the classes, the disc florets are not apparent. In those plants, the plant breeder uses a pair of scissors to uncover the disc florets for pollination and the development of new cultivars.

Since the chrysanthemum was first introduced into the United States during colonial times, its popularity has grown such that mums now reign as undisputed "Queen of the Fall Flowers." For many of us, our introduction to the chrysanthemum was a corsage for the girlfriends and mothers at Homecoming football games. Mums remain the most widely grown pot plant in the country and are one of the longest lasting of all cut flowers. This latter attribute, along with their artistic allure, make mums highly favored by floral arrangers. In the United States, the chrysanthemum is the largest commercially produced flower due to its ease of cultivation, capability to bloom on schedule, diversity of bloom forms and colors, and holding quality of the blooms.

An interesting contrast to the positive feelings many Americans have of the chrysanthemum (football games, house-warming presents, get-well thoughts), is that in many European countries the chrysanthemum is known as the death flower. In countries such as Belgium and Austria, the chrysanthemum is used almost exclusively as a memorial on graves.

As a landscaping plant, the chrysanthemum makes a beautiful Fall display for the home garden. With skill and artistry, many varied effects can be achieved, even when only a small growing area is available. Chrysanthemums can accentuate an entrance way; provide the Fall colors to a season-long growing bed; or dominate a growing area with the many varied shapes, sizes, and colors. Used in this fashion, chrysanthemums provide an outstanding climax to the season before the colds of winter arrive. Longwood Gardens (in Kennett Square, Pennsylvania) and Cypress Gardens (in Cypress Gardens, Florida) are two locations that have annual displays that demonstrate many uses of the versatile and beautiful chrysanthemum.

As with all gardening efforts, it is not luck or the so-called green thumb that achieves results, but rather hard work and dirty fingernails.

(reprinted with permission from the National Chrysanthemum Society)

Horticare Recommends

Horticare Recommends

While many people don’t realize it, having your sprinkler system winterized is a CRUCIAL part of maintaining your system. 

What does winterizing entail?  We flush out all of your lines to ensure that your pipes don’t freeze, as well as remove the RPZ to prevent it from freezing. 

Why do I need to winterize my system?  When temps. drop below freezing, the sprinkler heads can freeze, the pipes can freeze and burst, and the RPZ can freeze.  Replacements can start at  $500.00 or more. 

Save your investment by calling  407-2727 to schedule an appointment for your winterization!  Don't wait and let "Old Man Winter" ruin your investment!

Horticare Recommends

The FUTURE Fifteen Card is back!  Because we value your business as a repeat customer, we want to do something for you!  With a valid FUTURE Fifteen Card, for every $20 purchase you make in the nursery, we will punch one stamp on your card.  After you have filled your card, you can redeem it for 15% off your next purchase of $1,000.00 or less.  Ask for more details and how you can get your card the next time you are in the nursery!

Horticare Recommends

Log on to Arkansas Matters.com to check out some of the videos about Horticare and for some excellent "How-To's" around the garden!  Subjects currently listed are "Spring Planting", "How to Plant a Tree", "Landscape Design" and a Horticare Nursery Overview!