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After a long and cold winter, your lawn will be ready to spring into action soon, with warmer weather approaching. Here in the south where Bermuda grass is the dominant turf type, your turf may be brown and dormant still. Colder areas are subject to winterkill during extremely cold winters. Although the actual low temperatures have stayed above zero degrees this winter, the duration of our cold snaps have been pretty long. It’s too soon to say if Bermuda grass has been affected by the winter. We’ll know more by mid to late April, as it hopefully greens up and comes out of winter dormancy.

One all too common practice we see homeowners and even some mowing companies do that actually increases the chance for late winter damage is scalping down the grass too short at this time of year. There really is no justification for that, unless you just need the exercise. By removing the thick insulation of the dormant grass, the crown of the plant will be more exposed to freezing temperatures, which will occur in late spring. Scalping also stimulates the turf to green-up too soon in some cases, again setting the stage for increased winter damage.

If you are going to scalp your lawn, wait until the potential for a hard freeze is past. At that point, scalping and removing dead clippings will help clean up your turf, and help it green up quicker. By then, it’s OK and desirable for the Bermuda grass and other warm-season grasses to green-up. Never scalp a cool-season turf, such as fescue, bluegrass, or ryegrass, however. These grasses generally stay somewhat green most of the winter in warmer areas, and will green-up fine as weather warms in the spring.

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Despite the fact almost everyone loves to get out in the garden every once in a while, very few people actually know the so-called "correct" terminology associated with gardening so here are a few we thought you should know!

Bare-Root: A plant with no soil surrounding the roots. Some trees, shrubs, and perennials are often
dug out of the ground when dormant, soil removed then stored till ready to ship or sell from nurseries
and greenhouses. Best purchased and planted in Spring.  We will be selling Bare-Root Dogwoods this Spring for only $3.00!  Come by and see us!

Compost: A potting or seed/cutting mixture made from peat ("soilless compost") or sterilized soil ("loam compost") plus other materials such as sand, lime and fertilizer. Compost is also a term for decomposed organic matter such is what's left after a compost heap has degraded vegetable and animal matter. An excellent source of organic material for rebuilding and enriching soil.

Frost Heaving:  Plants become pushed out of the soil due to changing temperatures back and forth
from freezing and thawing. Often in spring plants become heaved out of the ground. Gently push
plants back into place.

Variegated Leaf: A green leaf design which is blotched, edged or spotted with yellow, white or cream color.


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You can rid your defenseless trees and shrubs of inconspicuous killers such as scale and lace bugs by using a prophylactic spray. The spray which should be used is referred to and sold under many brand names as dormant oil or scale emulsion. These are highly refined oils (not motor oils!) which spread uniformly on the bark of trees and shrubs to which it is applied and coat non-mobile, dormant insects on the tree smothering them to death.

Heavier oils may have to be applied with a tank (pump-up) sprayer which can apply the fully diluted product rather than with a hose-end sprayer which may become clogged. Applicators should frequently shake sprayers to agitate the water and chemicals mixed since plant damage can occur if a concentrated oil spray, caused by solution separation, is applied. Mix dormant oil at the recommended rate on the product label.

It is best to spray before buds begin to swell. If buds of trees and shrubs have begun to swell slightly, go ahead and spray. Although some of the buds may be damaged, the benefits of spraying dormant oil far outweigh the possible repercussions. Do not spray trees which are in full bloom however. Applying a dormant oil spray this late will also serve to cover pruning cuts and can serve as a second attack on stubborn pests which were not killed by an earlier oil application. The closer the application is made to budbreak, the grater the kill.

Spraying of dormant oil should occur on a clear day when the temperatures are expected to remain over 50 degrees F for at least twenty-four hours. The ideal temperatures for application is between 40 and 70 degrees F in order to get the oil to spread out over the tree and cover all crooks and crevices. Try to avoid applying dormant oil when severe freezing trends are expected in the 3-4 days following application.

CAUTION: The use of a dormant oil mixture will not only kill, but annihilate, annual flowers such as pansies, bluebonnets or snapdragons growing under or near plants to be treated. To insure domestic tranquility, completely cover such tender vegetation BEFORE spraying nearby trees and vines with dormant oil.

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The FUTURE Fifteen Card is back!  Because we value your business as a repeat customer, we want to do something for you!  With a valid FUTURE Fifteen Card, for every $20 purchase you make in the nursery, we will punch one stamp on your card.  After you have filled your card, you can redeem it for 15% off your next purchase of $1,000.00 or less.  Ask for more details and how you can get your card the next time you are in the nursery!

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One of the most frequently asked questions is “How to Correctly Plant a Tree”.  The following steps should be used when planting a containerized or balled and burlapped tree:
                  
Make sure to dig a shallow, broad planting hole.  The hole should be dug to the depth of the root ball, and three to five times the diameter of the ball. Place the tree into the hole by holding the ball, not the trunk.

Step two is properly position the tree.  Balance the tree, making sure that it is straight and at the correct height.   The tree should be planted at the same depth that it was growing in the nursery.  You may need to call and get specifics from the nursery or make sure to ask when you purchase the tree. 

Next, make sure to remove the materials. Remove or fold back the top portion of wire basket and peel back and remove the top portion of the natural burlap. If there is any plastic string or plastic burlap, remove it now or the chances of the tree dying are greatly increased.   

Step four is filling in the hole.  Fill the hole with about one-third of the soil that you dug to make the hole and gently pack around the root ball. Continue to fill the rest of the hole and remember not to add fertilizer for the first year.

Now remove any tree wrap that was used for shipping the tree. A properly placed and planted tree should rarely need to be staked, but, if you live in a high wind area that is not protected by other trees or high buildings, it may be a good idea to stake the tree for support.  If staking is necessary, make sure to remove the stakes after the tree is established but for no more than 1 year. 

The last step is mulch.  Place a 3 inch to 4 inch layer of mulch in a 3 foot to 4 foot diameter circle under the crown of the tree. Pull mulch away from tree trunk so that heat and moisture are not trapped.

After planting a tree, watering is crucial. Make sure that the newly planted tree gets a total of one inch of water (either from rain or your garden hose or irrigation system) every week the first year to help the tree establish it’s root system. 

As you can see, planting a tree is not as hard as you may have thought.  But, if you would rather have a professional do it for you, we specialize in not only planting trees, but also full landscape installation and custom design.  Give one of our talented designers a call today at 407-2727.  We look forward to hearing from you!

We want to begin by saying "thanks" for logging on and we hope you enjoy our Spring online newsletter! 

Let us start by saying thank you to everyone that came out and visited our booth at the 2008 Arkansas Flower and Garden Show!  We had a great time and we met lots of new people.  Make sure to come and visit us next year as we have lots of surprises in store for you!

Congratulations to Roy Davis of Sherwood, the winner of the pot giveaway!

Spring is finally here and we are ready! We encourage you to come visit the nursery for all of your spring gardening needs. Our spring specials are:

• 1 gallon Azaleas         5 for $10.00
• 1 gallon Camellias      $3.99/each
• 1 gallon Hydrangeas  $3.99/each
• Bare Root Dogwoods  $3.00/each

(while supplies last)

We also have a huge selection of annuals, perennials, houseplants, trees, shrubs, grasses, and so much more. Come by and see us today!

What to do with those Daffodils

For many people, the first sign of Spring is when their daffodils rise out of their sleeping flowerbeds or out of their dormant lawns.  The key for them to return next year is to make sure and let the leaves continue to grow for about eight weeks after they have finished blooming.  This allows the plants to rebuild their bulbs so they can bloom again next year.  You can cut them back either with a pair of scissors or with the lawn mower.  Good luck!
                                               
                                                 -Buddy Olsen, CEO
 

Before you do anything to your soil, you should have a complete soil analysis test conducted on your soil.  Contact your local county extension agent for their assistance in making this soil test. Also, you will need to determine the soil makeup of your particular soil (soil type).  You can run this test yourself or perhaps ask that this be conducted with your soil test.

All soils are composed of a mixture of clay, silt and sand.  Your exact soil composition will most likely be described as a mixture of two or more of these components.  For best growth of your grass this mixture must be the right balance.  The texture of your soil is the mix of the three basic soil components:

• Sand: Soils with particle sizes ranging from 2.0 to .05 mm.

• Silt: Soils with particle sizes ranging from .05 to .002 mm.

• Clay: Soils with particles sizes smaller than .002 mm.

Once you have your soil test back, you can begin to add the fertilizers and any other amendments (lime / sulphur / etc.) recommended into your lawn.  This is best done by broadcasting the amendments and then tilling into the soil so that the amendments are incorporated to a dept of 6-8 inches.

You may also want to improve the organic content of your lawn while it can be easily accomplished.  This is generally recommended to high clay or sand soils.  The purpose is to build a soil with more characteristics toward loam. --- You can do this by adding well composted materials.  A one inch level of dried manure will also help improve your soils organic composition.  Be sure to avoid the use of wood products such as sawdust or straw because they create a chemical process in the soil that robs your plants of needed nitrogen.  

Using compost is the best method to increase your organic matter.  Application rates vary from 2 cubic yards to 6 cubic yards per 1000 sq. ft. depending on amount of organic matter you want in the top 5-8 inches of soil and the amount your soil is currently deficient.  Each two cubic yards added per 1000 sq. ft. increases the organic content about 10%.

We carry many of the elements you will need such as supersoil and compost in bulk as well as bags so come see us at the nursery.

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If you haven’t heard by now, global warming and environmentally friendly products seem to be the topic of the day.  Not only do we support a “greener” way of life here in Arkansas but Horticare is here to help.  There are several different solutions that will help reduce carbon emissions, reduce water usage and reduce the amount of harmful chemicals released into the soil. 

1.)  Planting large trees and shrubs will help remove carbon dioxide from the air making it cleaner for us to breathe.  Strategically placed deciduous trees will help keep your house cooler in the summer and let in sunlight to warm your house in the winter.  Not only will these options create a better quality of life, they can also help save you money as well. 

2.)  Routinely check your irrigation system's controls and parts for proper coverage and function.  Install a rain-gauge and water your lawn and landscape during the morning hours to eliminate evaporation and waste.  Also, look into installing drip irrigation and micro-spray systems whenever possible.

3.)  The next time you go to fertilize your lawn or treat a plant for insects check out our nursery for some great organic products.  Try using compost in your flowerbeds or vegetable gardens.  This will help eliminate some of the stress on our landfills and do wonders for your plants.  If you do decide to use a typical product, don't over do it.  Too much fertilizer can contain numerous chemicals that can be harmful to not only the lawn or plants but to animals and people as well.  Water runoff containing these chemicals can be a deadly contaminate to our drinking water. 

These are just a few ideas that can go a long way to helping our planet as well as your pocketbooks.  Come by our nursery today or give us a call at 407-2727 and we will be glad to answer any of your questions on how to make your yard a "greener" yard. 

Also, to show our support and promote a "greener" way of life, we are going to be offering 10% off ALL TREES on Arkansas Earth Day, Saturday, April 26, 2008. Give us a call for more details    Horticare Recommends

Each holiday is marked by cherished traditions that bring joy, comfort, and warmth, and provide continuity from one generation to the next. Easter has its share of traditions: egg decorations and hunts; gift baskets and chocolate bunnies, sunrise church services, parades, and, of course, the Easter Lily. For many, the beautiful trumpet-shaped white flowers symbolize purity, virtue, innocence, hope and life - the spiritual essence of Easter.
 
History, mythology, literature, poetry and the world of art are rife with stories and images that speak of the beauty and majesty of the elegant white flowers. Dating back to Biblical lore, the lily is mentioned numerous times in the Bible. One of the most famous Biblical references is in the Sermon on the Mount, when Christ told his listeners: "Consider the lilies of the field, how they grow: they toil not, neither do they spin; and yet..... Solomon in all his glory was not arrayed like one of these."

Often called the "white-robed apostles of hope," lilies were found growing in the Garden of Gethsemane after Christ's agony. Tradition has it that the beautiful white lilies sprung up where drops of Christ's sweat fell to the ground in his final hours of sorrow and deep distress. Churches continue this tradition at Easter time by banking their alters and surrounding their crosses with masses of Easter Lilies, to commemorate the resurrection of Jesus Christ and hope of life everlasting.

Since the beginning of time, lilies have played significant roles in allegorical tales concerning the sacrament of motherhood. Ancient fables tell us the lily sprang from the milk of Hera, the mythological Queen of Heaven.

The pure white lily has long been closely associated with the Virgin Mary. In early paintings, the Angel Gabriel is pictured extending to the Virgin Mary a branch of pure white lilies, announcing that she is to be the mother of the Christ Child. In other paintings, saints are pictured bringing vases full of white lilies to Mary and the infant Jesus.

The legend is told that when the Virgin Mary's tomb was visited three days after her burial, it was found empty save for bunches of majestic white lilies. Early writers and artists made the lily the emblem of the Annunciation, the Resurrection of the Virgin: the pure white petals signifying her spotless body and the golden anthers her soul glowing with heavenly light.

It seems the thirteenth-century Barthololmeus Anglicus had this in mind when he wrote: 'The Lily is an herbe with a white flower; and though the leaves of the floure be white, yet within shineth the likeness of gold." So goes the saying, 'To gild a lily is to attempt, foolishly, to improve on perfection." To many artists and poets it seemed that, if any flower could have one, the lily had a soul.

In yet another expression of womanhood, lilies had a significant presence in the paradise of Adam and Eve. Tradition has it that when Eve left the Garden of Eden she shed real tears of repentance, and from those remorseful tears sprung up lilies. The spiritual principle held here is that true repentance is the beginning of beauty.

A mark of purity and grace throughout the ages, the regal white lily is a fitting symbol of the greater meaning of Easter. Gracing millions of homes and churches, the flowers embody joy, hope and life. Whether given as a gift or enjoyed in your own home, the Easter Lily serves as a beautiful reminder that Easter is a time for rejoicing and celebrating.

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Generally speaking, irrigation systems should be turned back on after the last freeze, but it is always a “wait and see” situation since the weather in Arkansas is so volatile.  Typically, the last freeze date is somewhere around the beginning to middle of April.  We watch the weather closely to forecast when we should begin de-winterizations.  The main concern is your backflow preventer (or RPZ) freezing and breaking if put on too early.  Some clients have older systems that do not have an RPZ and these systems are usually not susceptible to a lot of freeze damage, but they still can freeze in certain situations. 

Horticare encourages our current and future clients to begin calling in February and early March to get on our list of de-winterizations.  Invariably, many people wait until April and May to call and do not understand why it takes a week or two to get their system turned back on.  If you would like for Horticare to turn your re-start your system, please call early so you don’t have to wait.  The phone number is 501-407-2727.

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Usually there is not a right or wrong time of the year to mulch your flower beds.  Organic mulching has many benefits beyond the added aesthetic value.  It helps keep weed seed germination at a minimum, soil temperature from reaching extremes, and the evaporation of soil moisture at a much lower level.  We usually recommend applying a 2-3 inch layer of mulch to newly landscaped beds, keeping it away from the stems of the plants where stem-rotting and leaf burn can occur. 

For existing beds that have been previously mulched, we recommend applying a lighter coat of 1-2 inches to help freshen up the bed and to replace the amount that has decayed and broken down into the soil.  The refreshing of mulch should be done at least on a yearly basis but not more than two times per year.  Sometimes, if your mulch has lost its color and looks a little worn out, you can periodically rake the top layer to freshen its appearance. 

If you still have questions or would like a proposal for mulch installation, give us a call at 501-407-2727.