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- Fall is a great
time to plant trees, shrubs, bulbs, perennials,
grass seed and sod. Plants that are planted in the
fall enjoy cooler temperatures and ideal growing
conditions that allow roots ample time to grow into
the surrounding soil. Be sure to use a starter plant
food at the time of planting.
- Plants and trees
that provide color in the month of October include
Burning Bush, Camellia, Ornamental Cabbage and Kale,
Pansies Viburnum, Crape Myrtles, October Glory
Maple, Red Sunset Maple, Nandina, Pyracantha, Sweet
Gum and Virginia Creeper.
- There are lots of
perennials with interest now including Anemone,
Chrysanthemums, perennial Asters and ornamental
grasses.
- Spring blooming
fall bulbs are now in stock at local garden center
locations and now is the time to plant them. Plant
Iris, Tulips, Crocus, Daffodils and many others for
glorious spring color.
- Add a touch of
fall to your home and landscape with hardy Mums.
- Do not prune
Azaleas, Rhododendrons and other spring flowering
shrubs because they have already set their buds for
next year's blooms. If you feel these shrubs do need
to be pruned, however, you can prune them now, but
you will sacrifice next spring flowers.
- Time to feed your
plants with a good quality slow release plant food.
Fertilizing perennials and flowering shrubs and
trees with fertilizers made for flowering plants.
This custom blended plant food contains slow-release
nitrogen, sulfate of potash, iron and other
micro-nutrients for overall plant growth and
development.
- We recommend
feeding evergreens (Hollies, Boxwoods and Yews) and
deciduous trees (Maples, Oaks and Ash) with tree &
shrub foods. These product contains slow-release
nitrogen, sulfate of potash, iron and other
micro-nutrients for overall plant growth and
development.
- Time to dig
Gladiolus. Remove the tops and let them dry for two
weeks. Dust them with Sulfur. Store in dry peat moss
or vermiculite at room temperature.
- Time to
transplant peonies or divide them if you wish to
multiply your plants.
Lawns
- October is a
great time to lime, seed and fertilize your lawn.
You can seed a new lawn in early October or reseed (overseed)
an established lawn this month to make it thicker
and healthier.
- If you need to,
you can
lime, fertilize and seed your lawn all in the
same day. Otherwise, seed and fertilize the same day
and then lime later in the fall.
- If needed, fall
is a great time to
aerate
and/or
dethatch the lawn. If you decide to do one or
both of these, they should be done prior to seeding.
- If you do plan to
aerate, dethatch or rototill (for total renovation),
thoroughly soak the soil a day or two before you
start your project or perform your project a day or
two after a good rain.
- Now is also a
good time to control weeds growing in the lawn,
however you cannot weed kill and seed the same day.
If you choose to kill weeds in the lawn first, you
must wait three weeks to seed your lawn. Or, if you
seed first, you will need to wait until the new seed
has germinated and been mowed at least twice before
applying a weed killer.
Tips on applying weed
killer:
- Do not apply weed
controls on newly seeded areas.
- Do not apply weed
controls on windy days.
- Do not apply weed
controls near or on the edge of waterways.
- Do not apply weed
controls when temperatures are above 85 degrees F.
- Do not allow
children or pets to play on lawns freshly applied
with weed controls. Wait until weed control is dry
if you applied a liquid weed killer. If you applied
a granular weed control, wait one week.
- Always check the
label of weed control products and follow the
labeling instructions.
Feeding the Lawn
- Fall is the best
time to feed your lawn with a good quality,
slow-release lawn food, with at least two feedings
between the months of September, October, November
and December. We recommend using a 26-4-12 weighted
fertilizer in September. Follow the directions
EXACTLY.
- If you are
seeding or sodding the lawn, use a 14-18-14
weighting. It is high in phosphorus, which aids in
seedling germination and encourages strong root
development. If you use 14-18-14 now, follow-up with
a 24-4-12 in November or December.
- If you are not
seeding or sodding, use a 26-4-12 weighted
fertilizer. It is the ideal fertilizer to help
green-up your lawn and keep it looking thick and
healthy. This product is high in nitrogen, which
will continue feeding the lawn over an extended
period of time. If you use 26-4-12 now, follow-up
with 14-18-14 in November or December as a
root-building
winterizer.
Fruit and Vegetable
Gardens
- Pick the largest,
almost ripe green tomatoes, just before a frost. Put
them in a brown paper bag with some apples and they
will ripen as sweet as if on the vine.
- Remove all old
vines of beans, squash, etc. to the compost pile and
then spade or till the garden. Sow winter rye and do
not mow it.
House Plants
- Time to bring
houseplants back indoors if you haven't already. If
needed, spray them first with
Safer Houseplant Spray. You can dust the soil
with insecticide granules to prevent bringing in
ants, wireworms, sow bugs, etc.
- Repot pot bound
plants with potting mix.
- Fertilize your
houseplants with a slow release fertilizer like
Osmocote through November, and then slow down
your feeding schedule until February.
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Fall Tips |
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* Continue deadheading plants to
prevent seed production, unless you wish to collect the seeds.
Collected seeds can be stored in old film canisters or pill bottles,
labelled and placed in a cool, dry spot or refrigerator.
* Cut down perennials such as
oriental poppies and remove any brown or diseased leaves off your
perennials.
*
Take note of the annuals and
perennials that did well in your garden. Keep in mind the type of
weather conditions that were present (for example, this summer has
been wetter than the last five years - perhaps the hens and chicks
shouldn't be planted so close to the downspout).
*
Mark down which perennials you wish
to transplant to new locations, either in mid- to late-September or
in the spring. The rule of thumb for transplanting is: if the plant
blooms first thing in the spring, it should be transplanted in the
fall; if the plant blooms in mid- to late-summer, it can be
transplanted in the spring.
*
Start developing any new perennial
beds. The beds should be dug to a depth of 30 cm. if your soil is
poor, the lower 15 cm may have to be replaced with good topsoil,
with additional compost or peat moss worked in. Let the ground
settle over winter and plant in the spring. You may need to add soil
in the spring due to settling.
*
The fall is a good time to start a
compost bin, as you'll have a bountiful supply of dead perennial
tops and leaves. Don't compost any diseased material.
*
August is usually the time to cut
back on watering most perennial and woody plants. This helps harden
them off for winter. Plants going into the winter in a soft,
succulent state are more susceptible to winter kill. However, if
conditions are very dry, watering will have to be done. It is
especially important to continue watering any newly planted or
transplanted material.
*
Evergreens such as spruce, pine,
juniper and cedar can be moved in August if the stem growth which
was put on in the spring has turned from green to brown (wood has
developed).
*
Once you've moved a plant to its
new location, make sure that the root system is kept moist but not
wet.
*
Don't let the aphids bug you. They
are always most noticeable in August as they develop wings, fly
around and lay overwintering eggs on leaf litter.
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