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- Fall is a great
time to plant trees, shrubs, bulbs, perennials,
grass seed and sod. Plants that are planted in the
fall enjoy cooler temperatures and ideal growing
conditions that allow roots ample time to grow into
the surrounding soil. Use starter plant fertilizer
mix when planting.
- Plants and trees
that provide color in the month of September include
Beautyberry, Crape Myrtles, Cotoneaster, Viburnums,
Hypericum, Hydrangeas, Potentilla, Pyracantha and
Butterfly Bush.
- There are lots of
perennials with interest now including Coreopsis,
Ccabiosa and ornamental grasses.
- Add a touch of
fall to your landscape by planting hardy Mums now.
- Do not prune
Azaleas, Rhododendrons and other spring flowering
shrubs because they have already set their buds for
next year's blooms. If you feel these shrubs do need
to be pruned, however, you can prune them now, but
you will sacrifice next spring flowers.
- Time to feed your
plants with a good quality, slow release plant food
made for perennials and flowering shrubs and trees
that contains slow-release nitrogen, sulfate of
potash, iron and other micro-nutrients for overall
plant growth and development.
- Feed evergreens
(Hollies, Boxwoods and Yews) and deciduous trees
(Maples, Oaks and Ash) with a tree & shrub food.
This product contains slow-release nitrogen, sulfate
of potash, iron and other micro-nutrients for
overall plant growth and development.
- Time to
transplant peonies or divide them if you wish to
multiply your plants.
- Spring blooming
bulbs are best to plant in October. Plant Iris,
Tulips, Crocus, Daffodils and many others for
glorious color next spring.
- Add a touch of
fall to your home and landscape with hardy Hums.
- Time to put away
the beetle traps until next year.
Lawns
- September is the
best month of the entire year to seed your lawn.
This includes both seeding a new lawn and reseeding
(overseeding) an established lawn to make it thicker
and healthier.
- If you need to,
you can lime, fertilize and seed your lawn all in
the same day. Otherwise, seed and fertilize the same
day and then lime later in the fall.
- If needed, fall
is a great time to aerate and/or de-thatch the lawn.
If you decide to do one or both of these, they
should be done prior to seeding.
- If you like, you
can top-dress the lawn with an organic compost to
improve heavy compacted, clay soil. Topdressing can
be used alone or along with aeration, seeding and
fertilizing.
- If you do plan to
aerate, de-thatch or rototill (for total
renovation), thoroughly soak the soil a day or two
before you start your project or perform your
project a day or two after a good rain.
- September is also
a good time to apply a grub control to your lawn as
a long-term control.
- Now is also a
good time to control weeds growing in the lawn,
however you cannot weed kill and seed the same day.
If you choose to kill weeds in the lawn first, you
must wait three weeks to seed your lawn. Or, if you
seed first, you will need to wait until the new seed
has germinated and been mowed at least twice before
applying a weed killer.
- If you want to
prevent winter annual weeds from germinating in the
lawn, you can apply Gallery or Portrait in
September, but this would prevent you from seeding
now. You will have to wait 60 days to seed, which
means you would probably need to wait until spring
to seed the lawn.
Tips on applying weed
killer:
- Do not apply weed
controls on newly seeded areas.
- Do not apply weed
controls on windy days.
- Do not apply weed
controls near or on the edge of waterways.
- Do not apply weed
controls when temperatures are above 85 degrees F.
- Do not allow
children or pets to play on lawns freshly applied
with weed controls. Wait until weed control is dry
if you applied a liquid weed killer. If you applied
a granular weed control, wait one week.
- Always check the
label of weed control products and follow the
labeling instructions.
Feeding the Lawn
- Fall is the best
time to feed your lawn with a good quality,
slow-release lawn food, with at least two feedings
between the months of September, October, November
and December.
- If you are
seeding or sodding the lawn, use a 14-18-14
fertilizer weighting. It is high in phosphorus,
which aids in seedling germination and encourages
strong root development. If you use a 14-18-14
fertilizer weighting in September, follow-up with a
24-4-12 in November or December.
- If you are not
seeding or sodding, use a 26-4-12 weighting. It is
an ideal fertilizer to help green-up your lawn and
keep it looking thick and healthy. This product is
high in nitrogen, which will continue feeding the
lawn over an extended period of time. If you use
26-4-12 in September, follow-up with 14-18-14 in
November or December as a root-building winterizer.
Seeding the Lawn
- As mentioned,
September is the best month to seed your lawn with
improved varieties of quality grass seed. Ask your
extension office
for a grass seed mix best suited for your yard’s
particular conditions.
Fruit and Vegetable
Gardens
- Time to continue
with fall crops. You can still seed beets, radishes,
turnips, and leaf lettuce.
House Plants
- Time to bring
houseplants back indoors. If needed, spray them
first with
Safer Houseplant Spray. You can dust the soil
with insecticide granules to prevent bringing in
ants, wireworms, sow bugs, etc.
- Repot pot bound
plants with a potting mix.
- Fertilize your
houseplants a slow release fertilizer like
Osmocote through November, and then stop feeding
them until February.
PERENNIALS, ANNUALS
and BULBS
It is especially important to mulch after planting if
bulbs are planted very late in fall. Mulch insulates the
soil, keeping it warmer longer so root growth can occur.
If MARGINALLY HARDY bulbs are heavily mulched to survive
winter, pull back the mulch toward the end of winter.
This prevents premature growth as the sun warms the soil. |
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Fall Tips |
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* Continue deadheading plants to
prevent seed production, unless you wish to collect the seeds.
Collected seeds can be stored in old film canisters or pill bottles,
labelled and placed in a cool, dry spot or refrigerator.
* Cut down perennials such as
oriental poppies and remove any brown or diseased leaves off your
perennials.
*
Take note of the annuals and
perennials that did well in your garden. Keep in mind the type of
weather conditions that were present (for example, this summer has
been wetter than the last five years - perhaps the hens and chicks
shouldn't be planted so close to the downspout).
*
Mark down which perennials you wish
to transplant to new locations, either in mid- to late-September or
in the spring. The rule of thumb for transplanting is: if the plant
blooms first thing in the spring, it should be transplanted in the
fall; if the plant blooms in mid- to late-summer, it can be
transplanted in the spring.
*
Start developing any new perennial
beds. The beds should be dug to a depth of 30 cm. if your soil is
poor, the lower 15 cm may have to be replaced with good topsoil,
with additional compost or peat moss worked in. Let the ground
settle over winter and plant in the spring. You may need to add soil
in the spring due to settling.
*
The fall is a good time to start a
compost bin, as you'll have a bountiful supply of dead perennial
tops and leaves. Don't compost any diseased material.
*
August is usually the time to cut
back on watering most perennial and woody plants. This helps harden
them off for winter. Plants going into the winter in a soft,
succulent state are more susceptible to winter kill. However, if
conditions are very dry, watering will have to be done. It is
especially important to continue watering any newly planted or
transplanted material.
*
Evergreens such as spruce, pine,
juniper and cedar can be moved in August if the stem growth which
was put on in the spring has turned from green to brown (wood has
developed).
*
Once you've moved a plant to its
new location, make sure that the root system is kept moist but not
wet.
*
Don't let the aphids bug you. They
are always most noticeable in August as they develop wings, fly
around and lay overwintering eggs on leaf litter.
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